Rikimasa

One dish visitors recommend starting with is the Rikimasa Sashimi Masu Assortment. On one visit, it included 4 kinds of seafood: bluefin tuna, octopus, greater amberjack and scallop. It is a welcome choice if you want to sample several things from the sea. The house-made Rikimasa chashu also left an impression on the same visitor, who praised its moist, tender texture and well-balanced seasoning. Kimchi and namul served alongside were a good match. Pair it with the sashimi for a satisfying dish with a different character.

The daily specials can include familiar favourites such as rolled omelette, doteyaki and grilled salted mackerel. One diner who arrived just after opening enjoyed bottled beer with doteyaki, rolled omelette and grilled mackerel, and took note of the small prepared dishes at the counter, known as obanzai. There is pleasure in nibbling on one dish while deciding what to order next. Oyster kimchi, praised on another visit, is also worth looking out for. The selection changes from day to day and with the seasons, so part of the appeal is choosing a familiar favourite alongside whatever is on offer.

For a lighter finish, consider kasujiru. One bowl, described by a visitor, contained chikuwa fish cake, fried tofu, carrot and daikon; the sake lees tasted smooth, and the seasoning was just right. From snacks to go with bottled beer to soup and rice dishes, you can put together a standing-bar meal at your own pace.

Rikimasa is a standing bar, and its style also suits solo diners. Stop in around Kyobashi for sashimi and small daily dishes, whether you are after an early drink or a later one.